WASHINGTON — On our mission to bring you stories of impact and inspiration, we wanted to introduce you to one local chef, leaving her mark on Washington D.C.’s iconic culinary scene.
Masako Morishita is the executive chef and the star attraction at Perry’s in Adam’s Morgan.
She recently earned one of the most prestigious national awards: the 2024 James Beard Award. WUSA9 sat down with the chef to share a meal. And like the rich depth Morishita brings to her signature dishes, she shows us that it’s the story behind the award that’s the best part.
At Perry’s restaurant in Adam’s Morgan, the food is the talk of the town. But as patrons enjoy the food, it’s behind the kitchen doors where the magic happens.
“I feel like that's my mission to introduce Japanese comfort food; I do it with a modern twist,” said Chef Morishita.
For this top chef, creating culinary magic is an art.
“It always starts with 'what if." What if I combine this vegetable, this ingredient, and this flavor. What if?'”
In Adams Morgan, you’ll find 40-year-old restaurant staple Perry’s – an iconic food institution. And in D.C.’s culinary world, Chef Morishita is breaking the mold.
She’s not just cooking, she’s creating.
From Udon Carbonara, to Miso Butter Clams, her dishes are an experience – showcasing flavors that stick with you long after the dish has been savored.
Chef Morishita describes the details that goes into making Udon Carbonara:
“This chewy, thick noodle and that creaminess and savory little funky flavor actually really goes well together. And, in the middle, this is a Jidori egg. We get it from California. So, they raise the hen same way we do in Japan. They're organic, they're free-range, they are vegetarian. So, the flavor of the egg is very thick and as you can see, the bright orange color.”
Almost more surprising than the flavors in her signature dishes, Chef Morishita has only been cooking professionally for three years. In June, she was given the prestigious James Beard Award for “Emerging Chef of the Year.”
When asked what that moment was like.
Chef Morishita said “I'm so excited to be recognized. I feel really grateful for The James Beard foundation for recognizing this very unique style of Japanese food I cook, which is a Japanese comfort food.”
A former cheerleading captain for the Washington Commanders football team, she was with the team for five years. The combination of chef and cheerleader is not something you see everyday.
Morishita explained, “I had to lead thirty-two to like thirty-five girls. So yeah, it was a lot of work, but the style of my leadership definitely comes from that experience, and it was kind of like exactly the same thing that I do here in the kitchen.”
Her signature dishes convey Japanese culture from a familiar, ingrained perspective—as if you’re at the table with her family in Kobe, Japan.
“My mom and my dad are still running the little bar in Kobe, Japan and it's actually close to being one hundred years old,” she said.
Through her cooking, Chef Morishita has finessed the power of nostalgia.
“This is food I used to grow up eating every day, so that’s one of the reasons I thought about cooking as my career because I just couldn't find these foods I used to grow up eating anywhere,” said Chef Morishita.
It’s Japanese comfort food, with a Washington D.C. twist, and a powerful message.
“It's not just about cooking. I kind of feel responsible to be successful because I'm an immigrant woman,” said Morishita.
“I really want all of the immigrant women who have dream or goal, to know that if I can do it, they can do it.”